Thursday, March 31, 2011

Rodoviaria Sao Joao Del Rei

is the bus station and thats where we are as I write this next post waiting for our midnight bus back to Rio.

Loafed around Rio and everything we see or do reinforces our belief that it is the best city we´ve been to. Santa Theresa was quaint, escarda celeron was inspiring, hanging off the little bonde or bondinho ( little tram) from lapa to Santa Theresa was ethereal, and most of all the cariocas whose attitude we hear so much about are the friendliest!
We finally decide to move on from Rio and take things as they come with the Chilean visa. Bahia is our plan except that getting there will cost us about $900 /- even if we took the 24 hour bus! So thats immediately struck off the plan. Renata and Anu sit around, Helena and Ronaldo have ideas and finally  we come up with a plan. We bus down to Sao Joao Del Rei, one of the most historic towns in the Minas Gerias state, check out Tiradentes the culinary capital of Brazil and then move south to Ilha Grande, the island that has no motor vehicles nor banks.
The bus ride was panoramic for lack of a better word. The thickness of the vegetation is something I have never before experienced. Rolling hills, huge valleys , shades of green... awesome!

SJDR itself was a downer. I was particularly not feeling it that day and the general mood did little to allievate the brooding edifices around. My first bad day. I could see the effect on Anu and Yannick. The pausada ( family owned guest houses) was expensive, the churches were oppresive, and the restaurant was nice but the food we wasn´t what we expected! Dinner at the little street side Hambuguesa restaurant was nice. I started to feel better and then it began to rain the last rain of summer. I think that rain washed away most of my ill feeling. SLept well and woke up to one hell of a breakfast. It comes as part of the pousada deal. Here we also haad a fantastic conversation with a proffessor of English. Leant a lot about the brazilian mindset, the days of the dictatorship, their hopes now etc and there is no question that Brazil is our twin brother, afew years ahead and with far greater infrastructure.

Later that day we took off by local bus to Toradentes, a 20 min ride. Just entering this little town was enough to lift my spirits. Quaint is not expressive enough for the 3 streets that make this town/ village. Here I must add that the Brazilian people are definitely amonst the friendliest I have met even though most of them speak nothing other than Portuguese.

We found a great pousada, walked along the unpaved roads. I don´t say cobble stone because these were boulders compared to cobble stones that paved the road. Horse carriages run around merrily but these streets are a tyre makers dream. Tiradentes is engulfed by rather large hills. We walked around found the fountain called Chafariz that was fed by a spring but most of all the we just enjoyed walking around.

The night cooled down by a light rain as we walked around trying to decide on what to eat. It is a difficult decision is a town with the most michellin star restaurants in Brazil. Finally we decided on a restaurant and decided to eat what was a local speciality Oro Pro nobis - a chicken ( i too was surprised) dish with a ton of green veges , rice and a corn puree that kind of looked like hummus.It was a fantastic meal. Can´t compare it since it was the first oro pro nobis I had eaten!

This mornig w met a french couple at breakfast. Theyhave invited us over to their house in Rio for drinks when we get there. If we can we will definitely meet them. I have realised that these conversations have begun to mean a lot more to me than seeing the sites, not that the places and everything else is any less impressive.

Lots of confusion regarding our Chilean visa so we had to come back to SJDR, make some very specific payments and since the confusions still haven´t been cleared up we are taking the bus back to Rio tonight. Tomorrow hopefully we will clear the issues involved and continue to Ilha Grande the day after.

Oh yeah, the US Airways did credit the refund back to me with a small small fee! The prayers at the redeemer have paid off.

Too long a post to read and correct so forgive the errors. I´m posting anyway.


Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Can't seem to be able to open up the pictures to everyone so pl go to the link and sign in as nubirdy password shetty

Monday, March 28, 2011

Rio Photographs

http://www.flickr.com/photos/dragonflydreams2011/

 Some pictures from Rio.Ok, hope this link works, if not please copy paste it onto your browser window and it should! Enjoy.

Saturday, March 26, 2011

Braziiillll la la la la la la la la......

I Love love love love love this city!! at least all I've seen of it so far.... though... even if the rest is really really crappy what I've seen will still make  up and I love it!

Its a perfect degustation of cities.... if i can say that... it IS like they took pieces from different places and plated it OHh soo so so so very beautifully.
It is a great mix of contrasts...lovely old buildings sitting comfortably along side the new young brash modern ones....almost like doting grandparents with their brood of grand children.... it does have serious looking work places and yet it feels like a perpetual party place.. concrete jungles to the real ones, it is lush lush lushious green.. it has lovely open spaces, it has beaches.. oh my god does it have beaches...we have nana-nani parks they have beaches!!!( they also have parks though..)                                                                                       The Hills that lovingly hold the city together, like great big strong arms all protective like a cocoon... the neighbourhoods that spill out from between these hills like rivers meandering alongside these hills or rock and green....the favela's and the classy uber rich neighbourhoods.... Christ standing tall overlooking all and yet the crime ..(apparently, not the we've felt in the least bit scared or nervous at any point)
There are lovely tree lined roads, flyovers, under passes, pretty mosaic sidewalks, cycles,cycling tracks, great bus system, many yellow taxi's.. cable cars, trains, trams, boats, floats (yes, we just missed the carnival.. though  what i don't get is.. IT FEELS LIKE FIESTA EVEN NOW!!!!)  it has such a fun loving happy shiny (lycra'd) colourful people... and it has ATTITUDE! chilled, cool, fab sossegado attitude!
Every and any face is Brazilian.given all the races that are a part of this country.. the combinations permutations these races make... gorgeous gorgeous Brazilians.
I have to say though that I am relieved the women aren't ALL Gisele Bundchen, ..... I mean seriously how brave am I(or down right stupid!!) to insist on coming to RIO with Unni!!  (and given the mallu''s 'vaayanokhi'" problem..).. Oh and Yannick.. poor chap will be spoilt for life...sigh!!
the women are of ALL shapes and sizes..perfect bod's a plenty but theres more than plenty LARGER sizes walking around.. AND.. they all live in Spandex, or very very very VERY little of any other fabric (is it any wonder we got stared at the day we arrived..I did feel flattered until i realised maybe it was because of the  ''way too much in the clothes department''... but hey it was snowing in NJ when we left.. and no, i did not change on the flight like most of the Brazilian women did, into skimpy nothingness.Would've have, had i known better.... anyway...
like i was saying... there are gorgeous disgustingly perfect bods..(YES guys, everything you've imagined and more, and its pretty much all on display) and theres more than plenty of rather large women... but all wear bare minimum and carry it off... well.. they look extremely comfortable, and walk like they ARE Gisele Bundchen, so hey looks perfectly fine..though hallelujah ..I have no idea who's Secret it is.. but its doing a blahdy good job in uplifting all the enormity this country has!!!...

Rio apart I have to say something here- couchsurfing!! I dont even know te name of the GENIUS who started this concept, but is the best thing ever..... why hasnt this gotten more accolades? Facebook got a movie... CouchSurfing deserves more I say!!!!
Im guessing you'll know of this concept so wont go into it... but we're staying here in Rio with our first couch surfing hosts Renata and Ronaldo. (Ant's Bino... this part is especially for you'll for all the teasing...bed tea and spoiling has paid off already!)
This couple are the loveliest ever.... first they have been really warm and welcoming while we emailed each other, then they send me an email before we get here with address, directions (thanks to google maps), and since they are at work leave the house keys for us with the dorrman!! AND give me their telephone number and the number to dial to call collect!!!!!!!

The past few days have been the best mainly because of them.. most helpful with advice on what to do, where to go, how to go, etc etc etc..have given us a full and complete access to any and everything in their home, insist on us treating it like our own.
We've met their friends, had beers brewed by Ronalado who is beer aficionado connoisseur....great fun interesting conversations.
I dont feel like we only met a few days back. Last night they took us (yes, they took us out to dinner and party!!!!!!!) to this absolutely FAB FAB FAB place LAPA... what an awesome eveing. A regular looking neighbourhood by day, becomes this bohemian explosion of samba, beers, caipirinha's,Cachaça,laughter,fun, more lycra, popcorn(yes there was man with cart making and selling fresh popcorn) kids selling mint gum etc, hookers trying to entice, old couples, youngsters, great great food, queues to get into the best samba place in rio, live music, happy people dancing where ever and when ever the beat hit their feet, streets cordoned off to hold the explosion in....
This morning we walked up to and trekked up Pao de Asucar - Sugarloaf...  wonderful... have never stood someplace and have a cloud float around and past me........beautiful...(that trek up deserved something wonderful like that... apart from the stunning view) and then went wit Ronaldo to listen to some chorinho played by a varied bunch of music students... it really was lovely... and then we walked thru Urca and had the most delish meal ......(thank heavens for all that walking or else we''d be balls rolling home)
Much of the touristy to do has been ticked off..  but what We've truly truly enjoyed is just being.. walking around the various neighbourhoods, eating in local places that i dont even know the names off.. shopping in the supermarkets, jumping on and off buses like we live here...thats it.. living with Renata and Ronaldo we feel like locals and THAT has made Rio so much more for us.
Tomorrow a whole bunch of their friends who we've met, some of who are writers, film makers, etc will be coming over, they plan to watch Barah Aana and have an iIndian meal (cooked by yours truly) im looking forward to it :-)
Theres much more that has been done that I havent mentioned... but shall by and by.. and yes yes shall figure how to get pictures up here as well...
much love



Thursday, March 24, 2011

Rio ??

We reached Newark and Alex met us there. She wanted to shoot an ending scene to her film with the 3 of us leaving the US, backpack et al. For those of you who dont know Alex, she was shooting a behind the scenes on Barah Aana that has now gotten a life of its own as a feature documentary.

Newark to JFK was a breeze once again. Apparently we've been very lucky with the timing of flights. The roads around NY have been torn down in many places due the excessive snowing this winter and even then we did the trudge in under an hour.

Jfk to Charlotte is a 2 hour flight. Not bad, except that I was reminded of my early flights in India. Old planes, no entertainment system ( even on the 10 hour Charlotte - Rio leg), a big tv in the front that played a film we could all follow without the audio , $5 for the earphones, 7 for a beer ( blasphemous), generally unhappy crew and the story take a familiar twist.

Charlotte airport surprised us! It is a beautiful modern well appointed airport. Yannick's I- touch has been a godsend every time we need the internet, since I left my laptop in NJ.and switched Nu's ph off!!!!;-)
Our flight was to board at 9.45 pm so we trudge along to the gate after confirming there would be food on the flight ; yes sir, you will be served one hot meal, afterall it is a 10 hour flight!'' Thank you, thats very generous, I thought to myself!

At the gate I show the officers my passport and visa and they ask me for a ticket out of Brazil. we don't have one, I explain. We're going to bus it to Buenos Aires and will buy the ticket in Rio later but we do have a visa to enter Argentina, and a return ticket to India.They confer and discuss and shake heads and come back to me saying we will not be allowed to board unless we have a ticket out of Brazil as they believe the Brazilian passport control will not entertain us. I'm not sure what the legality on this is, but time being short the only solution was to buy a fully refundable ticket and cancel it after entering Brazil. The ticket costs me $ 6,000/-. I have no choice so I take it. The credit card foreign exchange fee alone will be $ 180 so I'm really pissed. We land in Rio after a bus ride of a flight except for luckily having a full row for Nu and me to share, and 2 seats for Yannick to sleep on. Passport control take 5 mins, no questions asked. Luckily we manage to cancel the ticket and they confirmed that it was fully refundable but I've not yet seen the credit! Made it easy to decide on what my prayer to Christ the Redeemer would be.

Exit the airport, take the onibus ( or Bus in English) to Rio Sul, then realise our 35 pound haversacks are really heavy especially after the wonderfully helpful lady walked along with us and took us a couple of kms around the building we were going to stay in. Even so, we all fell in love with the city right away. It is now my # 1 city in the world without a doubt! A one line describing Rio would be a rather long line but it would read; an Ultra modern Bombay mixed with the the portuguese traditional houses of Panjim, with huge open spaces , magnificient gardens, beautiful beaches and I would not do justice to Rio if I did not mention the spandex! Now  I'll leave somehting to your imagination...

Tuesday, March 22, 2011

OFF TO RIO DE JENEIRO

New York / New Jersey has been fantastic. We got to experience our first real snow! It was ethereal.

Its been as gastronomical fiesta, super delicate Sushi, Korean, decent Pizza at Lombardis, great Vietnamese and Chinese at home! Yannick , Elena and Kiara have been having a blast! Finally Yannick has the appetite expected of a 11 year old...he's eating the house down and we're worried he's going to eat out our entire travel budget in a month!

We've spend a few days walking around NYC and it is truly fantastic city!

Anyway , now we're off to Rio to start off our Brazil stint. We got our backpacks packed, decided not to carry the tent ( too much weight for potentially too few camping nights) and we're on our way.we have an address of our couch surfing friends and a ticket to Rio. Should be fun given we've been warned no one speaks any English or Spanish!

First thing tomorrow, we find the Chilean Embassy and try and apply for our Chile visa. Fingers crossed! Don't want to have to cut Chile out of our itinerary.

Next post from Rio....








Monday, March 21, 2011

Returns

Like I had mentioned, we've been shopping for warm clothes , shoes , and some camping gear. Stella has been stellar. (:-) sorry could not hold that one back).  She is the most industrious person we have ever met. She gets onto a project and works out the logistics with military like precision.

We had a list ; camera peripherals, boots, walking open sandals, fleece, and wind breaking jackets. We were at the end of the winter season here so we're looking for sales! Online v/s stores??

We hit the shoe stores, find Merell 'slip on' warm walking boots for both Yannick and me. Nothing in Anu's size. Get to the camera store pick up an extra battery, some 12 GB of memery, and a case. Works out to $170. I'm surprised, but don't react as we're in the midst of my favourite hobby... shopping. Yannick and Elena are running around having a blast in suburban America. Anu is trying hard to find other people on the street. Seems like no one walks!

We get to the REI store and find Keens for Anu and Yannick, some pouches, water purifier carbom candle ( Stella has a purifier for us from her trek in Nepal) and we head back.

Back home we get on the internet and find twice the memory and all the rest of the stuff for $70. I'm pissed and that when I realise the concept of 'returns'. In America you can 'return' anything you buy without wither feeling guilty or giving anyone a reason! Fantastic, I think but we're not psychologically geared to do this. I get Stella to volunteer to return the camera stuff and she willing does ( or so I'd like to think). This camera shop is not a chain store so the guy at the counter is peeved, and genreally pissed out that the internet revolution ever took place. Anyway, he has no choice.

By now Anu has checked out every winter boot left. Some don't fit, some have a zipper problem, the arch is an issue and for me the price is the biggest. Finally, out of frustration she picks a KHOMBU, knee length, black warm boot. I feel wearing them is asking to be mugged. Every woman looks at me disapprovingly. Its $150 but we buy it! And then the ' return' re arrives! Stella is online, buys 4 boots from one website ( shipping and returns free), then scans the entire internet world and finds one store that has the perfect boot! Its a Merell Yarra but they only have one pair in the size we think we need.

Drive half an hour to Livingstone, try on the last pair of Yarra boots in the NJ district and hallelujah we've done it once again! The best part its on sale for $60!!! This Yarra has Stella's name imprinted on it! Now back to Bloomingdales to returns the Khombu! Anu does it with aplomb, largely because the sales staff were different and because in a store that big , no one really cares! But what the hell, we're getting used to the ides of returns!
 
Btw we experienced our first snow ever today!







Saturday, March 19, 2011

The Flight

Ready to leave for the airport. Bob and Rahul drop us off 2 hours before the Swiss Air flight is due to take off. Last minute pressure at home along with the realisation that we will be away for 6 months takes it toll on us. Emotions run a little high. Yannick is hugging the dogs. Chica is sad. Doofy loves the extra attention. Ajji has tears in her eyes she can't hide. Finally we're on our way.

We get to the immigration counter and the officer waives Anu and Yannick through. He then looks at my card and asks me what kind of films I direct… South Indian films? … he asks. I say No, small independent Hindi films, almost apologetically. Which was your last film, he asks.  Barah Aana I mutter, and he says 'I love that film' Vijay Raaz is fantastic and Nasseeruddin Shah brilliant. He shakes my hand and we're off to the best start we could've dreamt possible.

The flight was comfortable, the seats ok, drank a little, slept a little, watched a few films... Wasn't impressed with True Grit, thought Stone was superb as was The Kings Speech. Yeah I did see more than a few films.

Zurich arrived, then JFK, still very un eventful. We take the shuttle to Newark (get kids fare for Yannick - very exciting) and reache Newark in 45 mins. Apparently that is unheard of. Anyway, Sharad picks us up and we're home. A little tired but determined to stay awake till at least 8 pm.

unni 

Friday, March 18, 2011

INTRO

Never blogged before but a few days into the trip and we're beginning to believe this might be exciting.

Anyway for those who don't know us, we're a family of 3, Anu, Unni and Yannick our 11 year old son. We live in Bombay, India.  We're filmmakers and bitten hard by the travel bug. A few months ago while reading an email about a family that set sail after selling everything they owned, we began thinking of our own little journey. Anu jumped into it right away, I had my reservations and fears, as did Yannick.

We have 2 dogs at home, and more importantly its never easy to stop running the rat race and turn away even if only for 6 months. Luckily for us, we have great support at home in Ajji, and Pramod  so the dogs are taken care of. About 2 months ago, I finally made the decision. It wasn't as tough I had expected it to be. In fact it was actually liberating. I had made up my mind and said no to most of the work that came my way. I started thinking of ways to sort out the financial repercussions of such a trip and it began to sink in. It was about this time that a friend of mine and I were working on a script that kept threatening to get green lighted. Anyway things worked out in the way they always do and I was finally free to leave. Of course just when I felt that way the Income Tax authorities decide to show up with a situation that has been dormant for over a few years...

The other big question that we had to deal with was Yannick's school.  The school was super supportive of the trip, and we plan to do some amount of home schooling through the trip, so we're guessing the experience of traveling, new cultures, foods, people, and places should make up for the difficulty he might face when we are back in learning how to divide fractions!


Rule #1 - there will always be a million reasons why you mustn't go, and only one why you must.

So make sure the one reason you must go is overwhelming enough to overcome the other million.


Once the decision was made, the world conspired to make it work out. Antima and Bino friends who had traveled thorough SA for a few months a couple of years ago convinced us to do South America rather than any other place. The few bottles of wine during this chat made the trip even more exciting. Later they would share intimate details like detailed accounts etc that allowed us to budget the trip and get a feel for what we could expect.

We then met Aparna Shekhar Roy, this wonderful traveler who shared routes, tips, friends, and everything she could with us. Like wise others started putting us in touch with friends of friends across South and Central America. We were beginning to feel more and more comfortable. Friends of Aparna's invited us to stay with them in Rio, others were willing to share their experiences so it was all coming together nicely.

We needed backpacks and other equipment, we needed visas to some of the countries at least, we needed to figure out some sort of a travel route and decide to use the weather as the overriding factor in making this decision. We also need warm clothing, something most of us who live in Bombay don't have any of and decided on a kindle rather than carrying bulky lonely planets.  Finally we found couch surfing! It is by far the best way to see the world. We shared our home with a few travelers in the month or so prior to our trip and we hope and plan to share the homes of other couch surfers during this trip to get an real local view of the places we visit! Highly recommend joining up !!

We started work on the visas, and our travel agent helped creating fake tickets and hotel bookings because the embassies in India don't seem to be able to understand the concept of backpacking. We managed to get visas for Brazil / Argentina and Peru. We know have to figure out where we need to apply for the Chilean visa since that is a country we don't want to miss.

Alongside this we figured the best airfares would be to start and end in NYC so that ticket was bought. Sharad and Stella , old friends of ours offered us there house as a base along with all their hiking equipment. An offer we couldn't refuse!